Potty Training Tips
Anyone who has ever had a dog will tell you that dog house training is one of the most difficult aspects about owning a dog. A human child takes about two to three years to become potty trained. A dog, on the other hand, takes five to six months. Training a dog is not easy, however, it takes time and patience. The important thing to remember is that it can be done. Dog house training doesn’t have to be so dreadful that it deters you from getting a dog. With a few important steps, your dog will become house trained and you will be both be happier because of it.
Start Training Immediately
Dog potty training should begin the moment you bring your dog home. If the dog has been in a dog kennel, such as at the pound or animal control, then it will more than likely have gotten used to going to the bathroom in its dog crate or dog cage. That means that it isn’t used to going outside and will just go when it pleases. The first thing you should get for dog potty training is a dog cage or dog crate.
Night Training
A dog cage or dog crate provides a place for your dog to rest and sleep at night. It, of course, would rather be in bed with you. However, if you let the dog out because of the barking, the dog will quickly learn that all it has to do is bark to be let out of its dog crate. This cannot happen, so you need to train your dog that it must be kept in the dog cage all night.
The reason for this is two-fold. First of all, dogs won’t usually mess where they sleep. By keeping your dog in the kennel all night long, it forces the dog to hold it until it is let out. In the morning, start your dog house training by letting your dog out first thing. It will learn that the morning is the time to do its business.
The second reason why your dog must remain in the kennel all night is because it shouldn’t have access to food and water until the morning. Dogs, especially puppies, have small bladders and will likely have to use the bathroom after drinking or eating. By providing them with meals and water only at certain times, you can further stress an eating schedule, and you will be training your dog to hold it until it is time to go outside.
Training Schedule
What you are doing is providing your dog with a schedule. Let the dog out every few hours and it will learn how to use the bathroom outside. Don’t give the dog food or water until right before you go outside. With enough time and patience, your dog will be potty trained before you know it.
If your dog does mess inside, despite its dog house training, simply put it in the dog cage as a ‘time-out.’ Only put your dog in the dog crate for a few minutes, however, as your dog is likely to forget after a while why you put it in the dog crate to begin with.
It is also important to stress that you must let your dog out of its crate at the same time every day. If dog house training isn’t working, it is likely not the fault of the dog but your fault. If you are not consistent with your training, your dog won’t know what you are asking of it. Be clear what you want and your dog will probably be more than happy to please you.
A potty trained dog is a happy dog. Just remember, having clean floors and owning a dog are not, by any means, mutually exclusive.
Keeping your Puppy Busy
Keeping your puppy busy with these exercises not only provides a basis that makes more advanced training easier, but it helps burn off some of the extra energy they have. This means your puppy will be less likely to chew and destroy your home due to boredom.Spending time with your puppy in these games will also increase the bond between the two of you.
Puppies like to play, and these games will help create a happy home for him.
Grooming Practice
Getting your puppy used to grooming at a young age will make it a lot easier to do when he is older, bigger, and more independent. Puppies need to learn to accept hands-on treatment over all of their bodies. Grooming him also establishes the dominance of the owner. Cut his nails and clean his teeth as well. He will get used to having his mouth handled, and will not be intimidated or reactive when this happens. Try just opening his mouth, handling it, before you actually do any cleaning. Do this for as long as it takes until he relaxes, and try to make a point of doing it every day at first. He will learn to trust and relax – and not bite – when a hand goes into his mouth. Once you are both confident, move on to cleaning his teeth.
Playing Hide & Seek
Hide and seek is fun for owners and puppies alike, and helps teach your puppy how to come when called.
- Put your puppy on a sit-stay or have someone else hold his leash.
- Hide behind a nearby tree or, if inside, a piece of furniture.
- Wait five seconds, then call him excitedly.
- When he “finds” you, praise him with lots of love and a tidbit or ball.
- Make each hiding place a little harder and a little farther away. Sometimes return to your puppy and end the game at that point so he will not think he always has to leave to get you near him.
Playing Find The Toy
Find The Toy teaches early discrimination through smell.
- Tie your puppy to a chair or have someone hold his leash.
- Let him watch you put several objects on the floor: a can, bottle, box, telephone. Use a glove or just barely touch these articles when placing them on the floor.
- Go back to your puppy, take his favorite toy and hold it in your hands for several seconds, and let him watch as you throw it in with the other objects.
- Release him and tell him “Fetch!”
- When he does, praise him lavishly.
- As he gets good at selecting his toy, use one of your well-scented gloves or socks and put it with similar objects that are unscented. Pretty soon scent discrimination will be an understood part of his life from your viewpoint, not just from his viewpoint.
Playing High Jump
At first, try just walking over the jump with the puppy at your side. If that works, fine. If not, put your puppy on one side of the jump and get on the other side. Use a piece of food to coax him over. If you have a leash on the puppy be sure to keep it loose when he jumps. You should never pull a puppy (or a dog) over a jump.
Playing Bar Jump
Same as above, except start with the bar on the ground. Slowly raise it after each successful jump.
Help, My Dog is Vomiting
Vomiting in dogs is a very common occurrence and can arise from a wide variety of causes, from simple gastritis to complex diseases of other body systems. Not only is it very distressing for both the dog and owner, it also provides a challenge for the veterinarian. This article explains the multiple causes of vomiting in dogs, including adverse food reactions, and the range of treatment options available.
What is vomiting?
Vomiting is the expulsion of food, fluid or debris from the stomach or small intestine due to coordinated movements of the gastrointestinal, musculoskeletal and nervous systems. It is important to differentiate this from regurgitation, which is a passive process rather than a coordinated effort like vomiting.
Regurgitation is a sign of disease in the esophagus, such as obstructions (foreign bodies such as a stick, bone or toy, or a stricture), esophagitis (inflammation of the esophagus) or megaesophagus (dilatation of the esophagus due to weakening of the smooth muscle). The main difference between regurgitation and vomiting is that regurgitation is effortless, while vomiting is accompanied by strong abdominal contractions.
How can I tell vomiting and regurgitation apart?
Sometimes this is not easy to do. Generally speaking, if it happens immediately after eating it is more likely to be regurgitation (though vomiting can still occur then). If the content of the material expelled appears to be completely undigested food, this also supports regurgitation. If the presence of bile can be confirmed though, it is more likely to be vomiting.
Causes of vomiting
The most common causes of vomiting are dietary related, either through dietary indiscretion (e.g. overeating, eating overly rich or spoiled food) which causes acute (sudden) vomiting, or adverse food reactions (food allergies) which can cause chronic (long term and intermittent) vomiting.
However, there are a huge number of other causes arising from either the gastrointestinal system itself (stomach and small intestine) or secondary to disease elsewhere in the body (e.g. liver or kidney disease). Within the stomach, possible causes include:
1. Gastritis (inflammatory disease)
2. Stomach ulceration
3. Stomach cancer
4. Obstruction (foreign bodies, telescoping of intestine)
5. Hiatal hernia (part stomach herniating through the diaphragm)
Possible causes within the intestine include:
1. Infectious diseases (e.g. parvovirus)
2. Worms
3. Inflammatory bowel disease
4. Intestinal cancer
Secondary causes of vomiting that are due to disease elsewhere in the body include:
1. Pancreatitis (infection or inflammation of the pancreas)
2. Peritonitis (infection in the abdominal cavity)
3. Hepatitis (liver inflammation)
4. Kidney failure
5. Pyometra (infection of the uterus)
6. Hormonal deficiencies or excesses (e.g. Addisons disease, Diabetes Mellitus, Septicemia, Calcium imbalance)
Other potential causes that do not fit into the above categories are drug reactions (e.g. digoxin, chemotherapy drugs, NSAIDs) and neurological disorders.
Treatment of vomiting
Vomiting is a symptom, not a disease in itself. Whether or not treatment is appropriate depends upon the individual circumstances. If the dog is only vomiting occasionally, is bright and otherwise normal on examination, treatment is probably not necessary. Some dogs with sensitive digestive systems will vomit once or twice a month regardless of any treatment, and if they are otherwise well this should be ignored.
For acute vomiting cases, the first step should always be to starve the dog for 24 hours (while keeping plenty of water available ad lib). After the period of starvation, the dog should be offered small portions of a very bland food, such as chicken and boiled rice, for a few days. Meals should be fed as smaller portions several times a day, rather than one larger meal.
Though treating the symptom itself will often improve patient demeanor and comfort, it is no replacement for making a correct diagnosis of the underlying cause, and certain drugs can be harmful if given blindly (for example, giving metoclopromide to a dog with a gastric or intestinal obstruction). Certainly cases of acute and severe vomiting require immediate treatment, as dogs can become rapidly dehydrated, develop electrolyte imbalances and aspiration pneumonia otherwise.
Managing the vomiting dog
There are 2 goals when dealing with a vomiting dog:
1. Identify the underlying cause
2. Stop the vomiting in a safe and effective manner
In many cases, anti emetic therapy (the technical term for vomiting is emesis, and therefore drugs used to treat it are called anti emetics) is instigated immediately while the cause is being established.
A veterinarian will start by taking a full history, focusing especially on normal diet, recent medication, vaccination status and the description of the symptoms. He or she must first make sure that the dog is genuinely vomiting and not regurgitating, which has a completely different set of underlying causes. It is also important to get a graphic description of the material expelled, and whether it contained bile, fresh blood or what appears to be coffee granules (partly digested blood).
The next step is a full clinical examination, including carefully feeling the abdomen, taking the dogs rectal temperature and assessing the hydration status. Once this is completed, a veterinarian will have a slightly narrowed down list of differential diagnoses in mind. If the dog is not dehydrated, bright in demeanor, and both vital parameters and feeling the abdomen were normal, the veterinarian will often (and rightly so) make a presumptive diagnosis of gastritis, or gastroenteritis if diarrhea is present too, and prescribe antibiotics to combat the likely bacterial infection. The owner is then likely to be sent home with instructions to starve the dog for 24hrs and give bland food for a few days, alongside the antibiotics. The owner is instructed to monitor the dog closely, and return immediately if there are any signs of deterioration, or 2 to 3 days later for a routine check up.
If there are any findings in the clinical history or the physical examination that trigger concern, then further tests are necessary. The first of these is usually blood tests for hematology and biochemistry profiles. Urine and feces may also be analysed, the latter for either nasty bacteria or parasites. Additional laboratory tests may be required in certain circumstances, such as bile acid stimulation testing if liver dysfunction is suspected, or an ACTH stimulation test to look for adrenal disease.
The next stage of the work up involves imaging. The most useful is abdominal radiography (xrays), but ultrasonography and endoscopy can also be very important. Radiography and endoscopy both have to be carried out under general anesthesia, while ultrasonography can be performed conscious. If the imaging does not reveal the underlying cause then biopsies may be taken, either endoscopically guided or via exploratory surgery. Histopathology of these samples (studying the tissue microscopically) can give vital clues as to the cause, particularly by differentiating between inflammation and cancer.
The final diagnostic option is the therapeutic trial. If the dog gets better on the medication prescribed, then it must have been a certain type of disease that responds to that drug. By this rationale, wormers, antibiotics or an exclusion diet trial may be chosen.
Drugs used in the treatment of vomiting
1. Stomach protectants and antacids
These medications are useful when stomach ulceration is suspected. Examples include sucralfate (acts like a band aid over the ulcer), H2 antagonists (reduce acid production) and omeprazole (also reduces acidity).
2. Metoclopromide
This drug blocks a neurotransmitter in the brain called dopamine, which prevents activation of the vomiting centre in the brain (known as the Chemoreceptor Trigger Zone). It is only partially effective in doing this though, and has the additional effect of increasing forward motility of the gut. This means it must never be given to dogs that might have a stomach or intestinal obstruction. It can also cause mental changes such as hyperactivity and disorientation.
3. Phenothiazines (e.g. Acepromazine, ACP)
These are effective at blocking the dopamine receptors mentioned above, in addition to other receptors involved in the vomiting reflex. They are usually used when metoclopromide has failed, but also have undesirable side effects such as low blood pressure and sedation.
4. Antihistamines
Histamine receptors are also present in the Chemoreceptor Trigger Zone, the part of the brain that controls the vomiting reflex. Antihistamines are effective in blocking vomiting that is due to motion sickness, but are little use against other causes.
5. Domperidone
Domperidone has a similar action to metoclopromide in that it blocks dopamine receptors and secondarily blocks serotonin receptors, but it does not have the promotility effects of metoclopromide. However, side effects include vulval enlargement and possible effects on fertility.
6. Maropitant
This is a new drug that is a Neurokinin 1 (NK1) receptor antagonist. It can be given orally or by injection, and is extremely effective at stopping vomiting by working both on the vomiting centre in the brain and on the stomach itself. It is deemed so effective at stopping vomiting that veterinarians must be careful to properly investigate potentially dangerous underlying causes, that could be masked fatally by this drug.
Dog Cages – Why Invest?
For most dog owners it is a satisfying feeling when you know your dog feels safe and secure and if you want that feeling more often then you should consider investing in a dog cage. If you have a large dog and you need a place for them to sleep or if you are just trying to train your new puppy then dog cages large and small are the way to go.
What ever money you have available and whatever size your dog is, there is often a lot of
choices available to purchase. The single most important consideration when choosing a cage for your dog is that the dog, no matter how big or small they may be, has sufficient room when it is residing in it. A dog cage should be large enough for your dog to turn around and lie down whilst stretching. Some people who own small dogs go for a large dog cage because they think that more space is better, but too much space is not necessarily a good thing.
If the space inside the cage is too large then your dog may feel uncomfortable and avoid it because too much space is not cosy and can cause loneliness for a dog. Dog cages, whether large or small, are built of wire, plastic and wood. The main aim when looking at the material in which the box cage is made is that it is sturdy enough for the dog and the dogs safety. Obviously larger cages or crates are best made from metals and woods as plastic can deform, become brittle and split very easily. Consideration of materials should also include dog comfort. If the edges are sharp then it can hurt or injure your dog, defeating the purpose of getting a dog cage for safety reasons.
Included in this check should be a look at the locking mechanism to check if it can in any way hurt your dog. The purchase of the cage is not the last consideration. Think about putting in a nice bed and some toys, creating a nice environment for your dog.
This will help the dog get used to going in the cage and it will help help them think of it as its home. If you fin d that the dog will just not get used to their new home try to put a few treats in there to encourage them in.
If you are looking for a Dog Cage then try browsing PuppyHideOut.com. We offer dog cages in all different sizes, materials and colors. Whether you are training your first dog or are trying to provide a new home of an older dog that isn’t an eye soar for the rest of the family, PuppyHideOut.com has what you need.
Dog Cratewear – The Bottom Line
Finding yourself tired of looking at the dirty old dog crate in the corner of your living room and want to do something about it but you’re just not sure what to do? Have you ever though of using a dog crate cover? They come in all different colors, styles and are available all over the internet at reasonable prices. Dog crate covers are a great way of tidying up your old crate and making it look fresh and new again.
Dog crate covers are available in just about any color you can imagine. khaki, green, denim, burgundy, you name it, you can get it. They’ve become quite popular over the years so there are plenty of places you can go to purchase them. Or if you don’t want to buy dog crate covers, you could even make them on your own with a little skill and the right materials. You might even be able to save some money if you did it this way.
So what is the purpose of dog crate covers? Well, I’ve already explained that one purpose is to help improved the look of that dirty old dog crate you’ve got stored in the corner of your family room. It will help make the room more visually appealing and not as much of an eye sore as before. Another purpose for the dog crate cover is to provide privacy for your puppy, which will also help relieve stress and reduce barking caused by distractions that occur outside the crate will your dog is inside the crate.
So the dog crate covers have a number of different purposes which include providing a little touch of class and a better appearance for your old worn out dog cage, and the other is to provide privacy and seclusion for the well being of your puppy or dog. The next time you see that old crate and consider tossing it out, perhaps you’ll want to pick up some dog crate covers to help bring it back to life.
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How to Stop your Dog From Nipping
Nipping is a behavior that is completely normal among dogs, especially puppies, and has a lot to do with a puppy’s learning process. The purpose of this article is to discuss nipping, not biting. Nipping is a form of communication, interaction, exploration, and play; whereas biting is a form of aggression. If your dog has a biting problem, or other aggression issues, you should visit your vet to make sure there are no underlying physical causes, and contact a dog behavior specialist to help you safely deal with the problem.
Puppies have no hands with which to explore the world around them, so they must use their mouths. They mouth and nip at their mother and littermates to communicate and play. Puppies learn something called bite inhibition from this behavior. When puppy nips his littermates or mother too hard, they respond with a yelp, and in the mother’s case, often with a warning or correction. This is how they learn what’s too hard, and what is acceptable. Puppies who are weaned and taken away from their littermates too early do not get the chance to learn bite inhibition, so they will be more nippy and harder to train out of nipping.
Remember that nipping is not an aggressive behavior, so do not respond to it with aggression. Your puppy is being playful and testing his limits through play. As with small children, a big part of learning what’s right, is first doing something wrong. Keep a strong hold on your patience as you train your puppy and you will do fine.
Start by giving a loud “ow!” or a shriek whenever your puppy nips. It is important that you do this whenever your puppy’s teeth intentionally touch your skin, not just when they nip too hard. Dogs do not understand the concept of “sometimes”, but they do great with “never.” You must teach your puppy that it is never, ever ok for his teeth to contact your skin. Come up with a command like “nice,” or “gentle” to tell puppy when he should be careful.
When you sit down to work with your puppy, have a pocket or treat pouch full of small, easy-to-eat treats. Hold a treat in your closed fist and in the other hand, hold your puppy’s collar. If he nips at your hand say “ow!” pull him away from the treat hand, and say “no, Gentle.” It is important that you pull him away from the treat hand, rather than pull the treat hand away from him, because that would encourage him to chase the treat hand, making it a game. Offer him your hand with the treat closed in your fist again, and if he sniffs it or licks it, rather than nipping, say “good Gentle” and give him the treat.
When you are playing with your dog, if he gets excited and starts nipping, stop play immediately. In his litter, if he nips too hard, the other puppies won’t play with him. Use the concept of social isolation to your advantage. If you are consistent, he will learn that nipping looses him his playmate, and that’s no fun. Also, avoid games that make your hand or body the toy, like slap boxing or wrestling. When you’re playing with your pup, try to keep a toy between you at all times, this will establish what is ok to lay teeth on, and what isn’t. Likewise, don’t play chasing games with your puppy, especially with herding breeds. This kind of play encourages puppies to nip at your ankles, which may be cute from a springy little puppy, but is not acceptable behavior once he grows up to be a big, powerful dog.
Another way to help your dog understand that he is not to nip people is to establish that all the humans in your home are above him in the pack. Everyone in the family should take part in your dog’s training and care. Kids can show dominance by being in charge of feeding. Have them always make puppy sit and stay before he can have his food bowl. If he lunges for his food bowl before he is told it is ok, have your child pick up the bowl and try again. A hungry dog will work hard to figure out what he needs to do to get you to leave the bowl on the ground, so it should only take a few tries to get him to wait for a command. You can also exert pack status with leash training. Make sure your dog always sits and is acting calm before you put the leash on, that you walk through doors first, and that your dog does not walk in front of you. Enforcing these few positive behaviors goes a long way towards showing your dog who is boss.
Remember to be patient and calm when teaching your dog not to nip. If you get riled up or act aggressively, you will set back your puppy’s training considerably; and besides, it’s no fun that way!
Benefits of Dog Clothes
Dog clothing has many benefits, in many different situations. If you’re unsure as to whether or not your dog could use a new wardrobe, read on!
Many dogs may not have adequately thick coats to spend significant time outdoors comfortably. Just as we are indoors most of the time, so are the majority of dogs. So, as we put on extra clothing to go outside, our dogs might enjoy the same, too. Dog coats, which are available in many different fabrics, including waterproof, and linings, could be the perfect solution for a blustery day.
Rain gear will keep your dog dry in the rain; dog boots will help to protect his feet from snow, ice or hot, rough pavement. Dog sweaters can be perfect for adding snuggly warmth to an elderly or sick friend.
There are other advantages to clothing, as well. For itchy pets, or ones with allergies, a dog shirt can make the skin less accessible, reducing chewing, licking and scratching. They can also provide a barrier between the allergens and the dog’s skin, which may reduce symptoms. Also, for humans who are allergic to dogs, a shirt traps some of the dander that irritates allergies, and allows it to be washed away, instead of spread on floors and furniture.
Pet Gates – Being Safe
Pet gates, whether they are made of metal, plastic or wood, keep your dog out of trouble by restricting its access to certain areas or confining it to one with suitable surroundings. They are versatile and can be placed in basically any location: At doorways, before access to stairs, etc. They also can be a better alternative to closing a door. With a pet gate, your dog can still see and hear you, which may help keep it calmer and make misbehavior less likely. Many pet gates are also portable, allowing you to easily move the gate to fit your needs.
Most pet gates are adjustable or compatible with expansion panels, allowing them to fit areas with wide openings. They are also relatively easy to install. Some gates feature pressure mounts, which require you only to fit the gate tightly inside a door frame or room entrance, while others feature wall mounts, which require the addition of installed hardware. Gates also come in a variety of sizes to ensure that large or tall dogs will not be able to readily escape. When choosing a gate, be sure to select one that withstands your dog’s size and behavior. Make sure that the gate cannot be tipped over or opened when your dog leans on it, cannot be chewed on and does not have widely-spaced slats in which your dog could get stuck.
Plastic mesh pet gates are not designed to withstand dogs that may display aggressive chewing. Wire mesh pet gates, while more durable, may still be compromised if chewed on; plus, they also can hurt your dog’s mouth and teeth. For an aggressive chewer, consider installing a pet gate with strong metal slats, rather than mesh.
Why use Dog Agility Training?
Aside from entertainment purposes, dog agility training makes your dog vigorous and alert. This fun-filled activity even sharpens his mind and teaches him to make his own strategy on how to finish the course efficiently.
Agility training will also allow your dogs to perform obstacles. With this kind of training, dogs can improve coordination through the basic training exercises used to teach jumping and ramp work.
More importantly, you and your dog will build a better bond. This training teamwork nurtures a good communication between the pet owner and the dog which improves their working relationship.
In line with that, there are different kinds of dog agility equipment such as dog training crates and dog exercise pens that will complete your dog’s obstacle training course. Every piece of equipment provides excellent improvement to your dog’s whole being and attitude.
Below is a list of benefits that you and your dog can get from agility training.
Benefits to Dogs:
º Keep your dog healthy.
º Allow your dog to perform his needed exercise.
º Establishes trust and confidence to you as their friend and owner
º Learning to follow basic obedience and instructions
º Develop flexibility
º Sharpens your dog’s mind
º Increases your dog’s endurance and confidence
º Develops your dog’s speed and accuracy
º Improves his communication skills
º Allows your dog to form his own strategies
Benefits to Pet Owners:
º Keep you in shape, healthy and alert
º Develop flexibility
º Helps to lose unwanted fats and gain muscle
º Increase your perseverance
Indeed, agility training gives your dog a great and exciting bonding time with you and other members of the family. Including it in your daily or weekly activities will surely strengthen your relationship with your dogs.
How to Keep your Pet Healthy
We know that obesity is a growing epidemic in the United States. Thirty percent of American adults – that’s 60 million people – are obese. But there’s another statistic that is even more startling and concerning to pet owners and veterinarians: according to the Association for Pet Obesity Prevention, approximately half of all dogs and cats in the United States are overweight or obese. That’s 84 million animals that weigh more than they should for optimal health. Just as with people, obesity in pets is associated with many health risks, including osteoarthritis, Type 2 diabetes, respiratory disorders, hypertension (high blood pressure), heart disease, and many forms of cancer.
What causes obesity in pets? It generally comes down to consuming more calories than the pet needs. According to veterinarian Susan Nelson, assistant professor of clinical sciences at Kansas State University, “Pets are overeating and under-exercising, and they’re eating too many high-fat foods and treats.” Dr. Nelson suggests a number of factors to consider when feeding your pet, including paying attention to the nutritional information and calorie content of what your pet eats. While we often think to at least glance at the nutritional information and calorie content marked on our own food, we may not think to do the same for our pets.
Is my pet overweight?
It’s relatively easy to determine yourself if your dog or cat is overweight. First, take a look at your pet’s ribs. If your animal is a healthy weight, the ribs shouldn’t be seen but should be easy to feel. They should be covered with a thin layer of fat – if they are difficult to feel under a large layer of fat, that is a sign your pet is overweight. Next, take a look at the animal’s stomach. A sagging stomach, where you can grab a handful of fat, is also a sign of excess weight. Finally, take a look at your pet’s general body shape. When looking at the animal from above, you should be able to easily make out a waistline. A dog should be an hourglass shape – broader at the shoulders and hips and narrow at the waist. A broad, flat back is a sign your pet is overweight.
How much should I be feeding my pet?
Figuring out how much you should be feeding your pet is not as straightforward as it may initially seem. Amounts vary based on the type of food, your pet’s metabolism, and the amount of exercise it gets. If your pet is a healthy weight, a good place to start is with the amount suggested by the guidelines on the pet food packaging. If your pet is just a bit overweight, look at the guidelines and feed it the amount suggested for its ideal weight, rather than the weight it currently is.
The typical domestic cat should weigh about 10 pounds, and needs about 275 calories per day. Unlike cats, the caloric needs of dogs vary greatly depending on breed – a variance expected when dogs can range in weight from under 5 pounds to over 100. A 10-pound dog needs about 300 calories per day, while a 50-pound dog needs 1,200. Feeding guidelines on your pet’s food bag will take into account approximate caloric needs, but it’s important to realize that food amounts may change if you change the type of food you’re feeding your dog or cat. Since pet foods can vary greatly in fat and calorie content, one cup of Type A food will not necessarily equal one cup of Type B food.
What about treats?
Just as we sometimes don’t realize (or don’t want to realize!) how many calories snack foods can contribute to our diet, it’s easy to forget to consider the number of calories contained in the treats we give our pets. Luckily, it is becoming more common for pet food manufacturers to list nutritional information, including calorie content, on packaged pet treats. Nutrition and calorie information is also often available online, so try visiting the company’s website if you can’t find what you’re looking for on the packaging. It is fine to include treats in your pet’s diet, but calories from treats should account for 10% or less of your pet’s overall caloric intake.
Hidden Calories
Pets, particularly dogs, can be scavengers. While some dogs are very well-behaved, others go through the trash, beg at the table, and try to help themselves to anything that looks particularly tasty. In households with small children, often one of the first things a pet realizes is that children are an excellent source of table scraps. Everything the child drops – and children drop a lot! – will be devoured by a waiting animal. And it usually doesn’t take long for children to discover that feeding their pet is a fun game, leading to even more shared calories. Adults are not completely innocent either – many people feed their pets table scraps, or allow them to eat food that drops on the floor. Rarely do we consider how many extra calories human food is adding to our pet’s diet.
A Family Affair
As Dr. Nelson says, “It’s important to count calories if your pet is overweight.” If you have a dog or cat that needs to lose a few pounds, counting calories can help you achieve that goal and help your pet stay healthy. But everyone in the family needs to be involved in this process, not just one person. No matter how careful you are about feeding your pet an appropriate diet, it won’t be successful if other family members are slipping their beloved pet treats and table scraps. It’s important that the entire family realizes the importance of helping their pet maintain a heathy weight. Giving food is a way to show love, but an even better way is to help your pet stay healthy and live a long life as a member of your family.
